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a. German Laws 1) German Wine 2. Tips 9. Trains C. Tours 1. Fairytale 2. Weser 3. Diemel 4. Fulda 5. Altmühl 8. Eder 9. Lahn 10. Spree 11. Neckar 12. Five Rivers 13. Lake Constance 14. Rhine 15. Werra 16. Main 17. Saar-Mosel 18. Elbe 19. Baltic Coast 20. Insel Ruegen 21. Roman Route 22. Pader 23. Leine 24. Nahe D. Contact Us E. Links 2. Bike Rentals F. About Us G. Legal Stuff H. Feedback
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Tour Overview: This is a 5-day, 183-mile (294 km) bicycle tour through central Germany. My wife Maxa and two friends from the Mannheim area Judith and Neil Forsyth of Bergstrassebikebooks.com accompany me. We start in Leinefelde which is part of the former district of Eichsfeld, historically a Catholic enclave inside the mostly protestant north of Germany. As such, many of the cities and villages were destroyed several times during the 30-years war (1618-1648) and the citizens changed religions back and forth until the Catholics finally prevailed. After World War II, this region was a part of the state of Thuringia and thus was in the former East Germany. Our tour ends in Hodenhagen, a village at the confluence of the Aller and Leine rivers. The guidebooks continue the tour down the Aller to Verden, almost to the Weser. We plan to ride the Aller one day so we stop our tour at Hodenhagen and save the Aller for later. The Leine River Valley has a lot of rural area with its accompanying agriculture. I have never seen so many horses on one ride anywhere in Germany. For an old farm boy like me, it is interesting and pleasant. Interestingly, as we approached our hotel the first evening, I rode along with a local rider who was out for a little evening exercise. I explained that we were riding down the Leine River to Hodenhagen. We had a nice chat but he told me that he was sorry that the ride was not as pretty as, for example, the Weser River ride or some of the other rides in Germany. That comment set my expectation that the ride would not be beautiful. I shared this expectation with my fellow riders. Notwithstanding this man’s negative perspective of his own home region, we all heartily agreed at the end of the ride that he is just wrong. The Leine River valley is not only beautiful it is also a wonderful adventure full of interesting sights, picturesque towns, and cute villages. I guess one can get used to anything, perhaps – even paradise. Signage: The number and location of signs along the route is not the best. On our first day, the signs disappeared. Because we were following an out of date guidebook (published in 2000), we did not know of the new path between Heiligenstadt and Arenshausen. Instead, we followed the old path over hill and dale while we could have been coasting along the river bottom. Accommodations: We had no trouble finding overnight accommodations. However, unlike Bavaria and other parts of southern Germany, central and northern Germany have more hotels and Pensionen rather than Privat Zimmer (rooms that owners of private homes rent to travelers). We enjoy staying in Privat Zimmer when we can; they are better values than the larger Pensionen and hotels. If possible, we engage the owners in a conversation about the local area’s history and tourist offerings. In England, people call such accommodations B&B’s for bed and breakfast. Usually there are one or two such rooms in a single home. They frequently have a shower and a toilet nowadays. By the way, besides Privat Zimmer there are Pensionen – smaller hotels that have several rooms, Ferienwohnungen – a vacation apartments, and hotels. The difference, if any, between Privat Zimmer and a Ferienwohnungen is the latter typically are a little larger, have some type of cooking capability, and normally will not rent for a single night only – that is they prefer several days rental. It never hurts to ask though – after all, money is money and if they are going to be vacant for the evening anyway maybe they will change the rules for you at the last minute. Stops: You must see the walled village of Einbeck. It is interesting as well as beautiful. Göttingen is well worth some sightseeing time too. We did not take any of the side trips in the guidebook to, for example, Hildesheim. That may have been a mistake because I found a lot of information on the Internet about Hildesheim. Maps and Guidebooks: We used the “Bikeline Radtourenbuch und Karte, Leine- Radweg, von der Quelle zur Weser.” That translates to “bicycle tour book and map, Leine bike path, from the spring to the Weser” but we stopped at the Aller confluence.
Day 1: Leinefelde to Gross Schneen Day Overview: The path is paved except for several short sections of gravel. Expect several hills in the morning but past Arenshausen the path is mostly level. Mile 0 (0.0 km): Starting under blue skies at the Bahnhof in Leinefelde our first stop is at the spring; the source of the Leine. If you miss it, you have not missed much. Mile 3.2 (5.2 km): After the obligatory visit to the spring, we follow signs to the cloister at Beuren. They started construction of this cloister for Cistercian nuns in 1673. We could have but did not take the guided tour of the building. You can prearrange a tour by telephoning 3606/5241. We continue through the villages of Wingerrode toward Bodenrode on a low traffic road following the river. Mile 8.7 (14.0 km): As we approach Heiligenstadt, we lose track of the Leine bike path signs. We follow some other bike route signs that take us to the North Bahnhof where we realize, by looking at our guidebook, that the real path turned to the right several blocks to the south. So, back we go to the real path, shift down, and climb a steep hill; a pusher for most of the members of the Over Fifty with Bad Knees Club. Once atop the 200-foot hill, we ride along a lightly traveled back road climbing and dropping with the undulating landscape. We ride the optional path up into Marth. I don’t have a clue why we do so, perhaps we have not had enough hills this morning. Or, probably it is just because it is here. Maxa asks a resident for the best way back to the Leine and he tells us to turn right at the next intersection and take the small road down into Arenshausen. This isn’t the bike path but it is a great drop on a low traffic road through a small, picturesque valley. Mile 21.5 (34.6 km): We arrive in Arenshausen. It’s hot and we are thirsty. Today is a beautiful day but one in which the water in our bottles disappears quickly. In Arenshausen, we take a break at an establishment that used to be a service station during the East German times. The building is ramshackle but the operators are pleasant and doing the best they can with the new capitalistic political regime. The owner asks us if we enjoyed the wonderful new bike path along the river from Heiligenstadt. “Huh? (Wie Bitte?)” we say. “We’ve been riding up and down really steep hills since Heiligenstadt. What new path?” She explains that a recently opened path extends from the North Bahnhof to Arenshausen so bikers can avoid the hills. We kick ourselves; we must have been right next to the start of it when we turned around and went back. Local knowledge is valuable. They say experience is something you get right after you need it. But if we had known about it, we would have missed Marth. I would have foregone Marth in a heartbeat! Mile 22.10 (35.6 km): Leaving Arenshausen, we ride through Kirchgandern. The border between Thuringia (Thüringen) and Lower Saxony (Neidersachsen) is just outside of Kirchgandern. Interestingly, we find a former POW prison camp in Friedland (mile 23.6) that was converted after the war into a resettlement camp for refugees returning to Germany from Russia and other Eastern Soviet Bloc countries. It isn’t used any more. Here is a map of this area offered by Wikipedia: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/ad/Eichsfeld_1900.jpg Mile 26.7 (43.0 km): In Klein Schneen, we stop at the train tracks as the guard arm comes down. Across the tracks we notice a cute place to spend the night. The train comes roaring by and the din makes it impossible to talk among ourselves about the possibility of staying here a train comes through. We can not hear ourselves think, let alone converse. So, assuming this was not a good stop because of the noise, we pedal off the path into Gross Schneen where we found Pension Am Birkenfeld. This Pension is also a Ferienwohnung or vacation rental. It is wonderfully quite and comfortable. The owner is Frau Vollerecht, who by coincidence is an attorney. The address is Grosserbruch 3, D-37133 Friedland, Gross Schneen, Telephone 05504-93550, Fax 935522. Our cost is €45.00 per night double occupancy (the cost for two people to spend one night).
Day 2: Gross Schneen to Einbeck Day Overview: The path signage is a little scarce north of Göttingen and especially on the jog left then right at Hillerse. However, if you like level bike paths, you will like today’s ride. The only hill was a set of stairs leading up to a bridge over the Leine just north of Göttingen. Mile 1.7 (2.7 km): We rejoin the bike path and make our way to Rosdorf. We have to take an alternate route due to construction outside of Niedernjesa. The alternate is a paved path following a back road into Rosdorf. The next stop is Göttingen. Mile 9.9 (16.0 km): This is the university town of Göttingen. The Gänseliesel fountain is sort of the symbol of Göttingen. The remarkably well preserved town suffered little during and after WWII. Although, Göttingen was recognized in writing as early as 953CE it was established prior to the 7th Century. It was also one of the many Hanseatic League towns and therefore was a center of wealth and commerce during the late Middle Ages. Known today for its university, it is perhaps the birthplace of modern physics. Great scientists such as Albert Einstein, Max Plank, and Karl Gauss attended here. By the way, the brothers Grimm taught here too (in addition to fairytales, they were into history, language, and linguistics). The trademark or symbol of the city is the Gänseliesel statue. Originally designed to represent children (often illegitimate) who were resigned to a life of labor sometimes herding geese in the village, the statue came to be a part of folklore in the city. Doctorial degree candidates who pass their last oral examination are dressed in costume and paraded to the statue (sometimes in a wheelbarrow) where upon they climb up and kiss the girl’s face. Some say Gänseliesel is the most kissed statue in the world – but I’d like to know who keeps these statistics. Mile 30.4 (48.9 km): We are approaching Hollenstedt. We have the choice of climbing a small hill to see the castle and the town or take the alternate route around the town. We vote and the winner is the alternate route. Three of the four riding companions have probably seen enough castles to last a lifetime. I am the only romantic. However, I am carrying my brand new backpack binoculars on this trip. I no sooner announce to the group that if anyone has a desire to look at anything through the binoculars, to let me know when we pass a small lake that is a bird sanctuary – complete with a viewing station. We stop to see what there is to see from it. With our binoculars and the help of another bird watcher, we identify two species of herons, two species of geese (one from Africa), several swans, and three different duck species and several other water birds. This is pretty cool for the first time I use my binos for real bird watching. Mile 36.0 (57.9 km): We stop for the night in Einbeck, the home of the Einbecker Brewery, a famous and popular beer in Germany. Not only is there a brewery here but the old town is very picturesque with half-timbered, cheek-by-jowl buildings, complete with a city wall and a town square. It is well worth the short side trip off the bicycle path. We stay at Gästehaus Zur Stadt Einbeck, Benser Strasse 27, Frau Inge Schneider is the owner (telephone 05561-4086). After phoning her from the edge of town, we pedal toward the town square but we stop to buy beer and wine at the local Getränkeladen (a kind of liquor store). When we finally get close to Benser Strasse, a young man asks if we are looking for the Gästehaus. “Yes,” we answer; and we follow him around the corner where Frau Schneider is waiting for us on the sidewalk. She worried when we didn’t arrive at the time she expected us. Apparently, she didn’t realize we would be passing a Getränkeladen on the way and she also didn’t realize how much we needed things to drink after a long day’s bike ride. What does one drink in Einbeck? Well, Einbecker, of course. In spite of her disappointment in her guests, Frau Schneider is a gracious hostess and helps us decide where to find a restaurant this evening.
Day 3: Einbeck to Bergstemmen Day Overview: Prepare for a few hills north of Fraden. They are high but not steep so most of us in the Over Fifty with Bad Knees Club will be able to pedal up them. Except for short stretches of dirt or gravel, most of the path is paved. Mile 0 (0 km): Einbeck is beautiful. It has over 700 half-timbered buildings and an intact wall – or most of it. It was first mentioned in 1252 and has had its own brewery since 1351. We arrived late yesterday and this morning we will be on our way early but if we were here during normal business hours, there are walking and bicycle tours that explain the city’s long and interesting history. Einbeck too, was a member of the Hanseatic League. It was also a center for bicycle manufacturing, fabric dyeing, and bread baking (where don’t they bake bread in Germany?). Our dinner last night was at the Brot Haus, a building originally built as the guild house for the bread baking guild. Today, it is owned by the Einbecker Brauerei as their official restaurant. Hint: If ever you find yourself in a brewery town, the Braustätte is the brewery’s official restaurant and will probably serve the best food in town. Mile 0 (0 km): We rejoin the bike path at the edge of Einbeck. Mile 13.7 (22.1 km): Fraden. Mile 20.6 (33.2 km): This is Alfeld. Between Alfeld and Gronau on the east side of the valley are the Germany’s Seven Mountains (Sieben Berge). These hills are one of the supposed locations for the Brothers Grimm fairytale of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. However, fairytales, as with most old tales and stories, have gathered a little controversy over time. It seems that the stories of both Snow White and Sleeping Beauty are attributed to more than one location. Snow White is also placed in the Bad Zwesten and Bergfreiheit south of Fritzlar in Hesse some 50 miles southeast of Alfeld. The tale of Snow White reoccurs in several countries including countries in Asia. France though is perhaps the most likely to be the country of origin. Only Walt Disney knows for sure. Anyway, that is my belief and I am going to hold to it. Mile 29.4 (47.3 km): Gronau. Mile 36.6 (58.9 km): We stop for the evening in Bergstemmen at the Bergstemmer Hof a hotel garni costing €65.00 per night double occupancy (the cost for two people to spend one night). The address is Sackstrasse 6, 31171 Bergstemmen, Telephone 05069-9095. This is a typical Pension with rooms upstairs above the bar/restaurant and across the courtyard. The food tastes great and is a good value. The host is helpful and allows us to clean the mud off our bikes in his paved courtyard.
Day 4: Bergstemmen to Steinhude Day Overview: While there are no hills today, there will be a fair amount of gravel and dirt path. You may get the feeling that there is less pavement than dirt and gravel path. Nevertheless the path is well packed and well traveled so except for the wettest days, one need not be concerned. Signage is spotty but if you keep Hannover as your destination in mind you will be able to get though the morning. Getting lost in Hannover is probably mandatory (at least it is likely) but if you try to stick close to the river, you’ll make it. Mile 2.2 (3.5 km): Marienburg. We have been watching a large castle on the hillside get bigger and bigger as we get closer and closer to it. I take a picture because it looks almost like a storybook castle. Now, right underneath the castle, we cannot see it clearly because of the forest. Marienburg is the home of one of the oldest royal families of Europe. Closely related to the English monarchy, members of this family ruled Hannover for many years. Coincidentally, we are here in June of 2006 and this month some $54 Million dollars worth of family belonging are being auctioned off to the public in order to fund refurbishment of the castle and the creation of a tourist destination. From here, we meander along any of several paths with few, if any path signs as we make our way toward Hannover. Mile 19.0 (30.5 km): Hannover (in English, Hanover) is a very large city. You ride for miles along the bike path not knowing if you are in the city or in its suburbs. However, now we are at the southern end of the Maschsee, a long man-made lake surrounded by a park in the center of the busy city. The bike path through Hannover is quite nice, following a series of parks and open areas and keeping you away from heavy traffic. Mile 29.8 (48.0 km): We cross underneath the Mittelland Kanal (Mid Germany Canal – connecting Berlin to the North Sea). Duck! No, not the bird; it’s the bridge with the canal in it. It has a low clearance. It is a little surreal to think you are riding under a canal. Oh, well. I’ve had this experience several time during the last seven years of bicycling in Europe. Mile 36.0 (58.0 km): We leave the bike path in Bordenau to ride to Steinhude where we stop for the night. The city is 10 or 12 km off the path. Mile 45.5 (73.2 km): Steinhude has the feeling of a seaside resort community but it is just on a large lake. It is darling on the promenade with seafood restaurants, shops, and bicycle rental shops. Due to some unfortunate communication, we pedal the wrong direction after receiving directions to the home (a Private Zimmer) where we are to spend the night. Anyway, we finally figure it out and we are exceedingly happy to have found such a nice accommodation. The Address of Gästehaus Wie-Wa (from the owner’s names, Wassmann and Wiemann) is Schlesierweg 17, 31515 Steinhude, telephone is 05033-8176, Fax 05033-3140. The cost is €50-€60 for double occupancy (the cost for two people to spend one night).
Day 5: Steinhude to Hodenhagen Day Overview: The path today is mostly flat, even the hill shown in the guidebook is only 10 feet in height. There are some interesting path conditions though, off and on between pavement, gravel, dirt, and grass. If you are in Steinhude on a weekend, there is a museum in the military airfield that is open only on weekends. It is called Wunstorf Fliegerhorst and it was in operation during the war so it has an interesting history. In addition to a Russian helicopter and 500 model airplanes it also has a restored Junker JU 52, one of the German WWII transport/bomber mainstay airplanes. This type of plane was nicknamed, Tante Ju (Aunt Ju). The museum website is http://www.ig-ju52.de/. Mile 4.0 (6.5 km): Wunstorf Fliegerhorst (a Fliegerhorst is an airport). Mile 6.5 (10.4 km): Neustadt am Rübenberge and we are back at the bike path. Mile 14.4 (23.1 km): We here is a sign (shown on right) showing that there are two ways to Mandelsloh. Today is such a nice day, we take the long way. Mile 35.3 (56.8 km): Hodenhagen Bahnhof and the end of the Leine River Bike Tour. I don’t care what that guy said about the Leine valley not being pretty. Remember the biker we met the afternoon of our first day? It is very beautiful and is one trip that I would be happy to repeat in a couple years.
Revised: March 30, 2008 |
