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Austrian Danube Tour

The Danube (Donau in German) is the second most popular bicycle tour in Germany and the most popular in Austria. The entire valley from its source near the Black Forest to the Black Sea is beautiful. The Danube crosses the Austrian border near Passau, Germany. We have only been as far as Vienna but we found it mostly flat, mostly paved, verdant, rustic, historically interesting, and just plain fun. Pack light, come hungry and enjoy yourselves.

An example of how bicycle-friendly this area is the anecdote told to us by another couple we met at a restaurant. This Canadian couple was creating their own self-guided and self-supported tour too. They related how they had to push their bike for over an hour up a steep mountain road (not on this route, fortunately) and upon reaching the top, they asked a resident for a drink of water. In addition to the water, they were offered showers to freshen up. People seem to go out of their way to make your experience memorable and pleasant here

Tour Overview: August 2000. This tour of the Austrian Danube will take you from Passau, to Vienna. This is a flat, 6-day ride 201-mile (324 km) following the Danube. The Danube in German is Donau. I might use the names interchangeably as most of the place names in Germany are better known by their German name. The Danube winds through historic Upper Austria. For us, this tour is a continuation of the Altmühl River tour that we started in Gunzenhausen, we then continued down the Altmühl River to Kelheim, and then along the Danube to Passau. Passau, about halfway between Gunzenhausen and Vienna, is at the German-Austrian border; making it a great breakpoint between the two trips.

We are taking this tour with two friends from the Seattle area. They are Daghild and Erhard, German-American and Austrian-Americans respectively. Daghild is a retired professional pastry chef, trained in Austria. Her guidance about what to eat where is guaranteed to add pounds to our hips. e will just have to peddle harder to make room for everything and not gain too much weight. This is a bicycle-friendly part of the world. For most of the way, there are bike routes on both sides of the river. We choose which side we ride on based upon route conditions that we learn from locals along the way. We are all members of the Over-Fifty-with-Bad-Knees Club (an honorary club you join automatically as soon as you qualify) so we prefer flat, smooth, and no traffic. We’ll actually go out of our way to find these conditions.

Photo Credits: Most of the photographs on this page are attributed to Daghild Rick. We took this trip in 2000 and digital cameras were still in their infancy. I did not have a digital camera - only a film camera. Sure, I took a few pictures but Daghild took hundreds with her (at the time only a 3 Megapixel)) new-fangled digital camera. She was nice enough to send me a disk of all her photographs along with permission for me to use and abuse them as I wanted. Consequently, most of the photographs on this page are her intellectual property. For you to copy them I will need to obtain her permission before you can do anything with the photographs. Actually, if you read my Permissions and Privacy page you will find that I too am a little stuffy about what you can do with any photographs or any text in

An example of how bicycle-friendly this area is the anecdote told to us by another couple we met at a restaurant. This Canadian couple was creating their own self-guided and self-supported tour too. They related how they had to push their bike for over an hour up a steep mountain road (not on this route, fortunately) and upon reaching the top, they asked a resident for a drink of water. In addition to the water, they were offered showers to freshen up. People seem to go out of their way to make your experience memorable and pleasant here

Accommodations: There is no shortage of overnight accommodations on this tour. Because of the popularity of this bike route, nearly every small village will have at least one “Zimmer” accommodation: As a choice, we like Zimmer (advertised as Zimmer Frei) but you have other choices too, such as Gasthäuser (Guest Houses), Pensionen (pensions or small hotels with limited services), Jugendherbergen (Youth Hostels), and hotels. For a complete discussion of the different types of accommodations and tips on reservations, see my Overnight Accommodations page.

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Stops: The most interesting stops for sightseeing and history are Passau, Linz, Stift Melk, Willendorf, Weißenkirchen, Dürnstein, Krems, and Vienna. The Wachau, between Melk and Krems, according to one guidebook, is the most beautiful region in Austria. I want to revisit the Wachau someday. When I do, I plan to stay in one place and ride out in a different direction every day. And I plan to take more advantage of the various Heurigen (wine pubs). For those of you who speak German, check out the website about the Wachau at*

English version of guidebookMaps and Guidebooks: We used the "bikeline, Donau-Radweg Teil 2, Radtourenbuch und Karte," scale 1:50,000, published by Verlag Roland Esterbauer, GmbH. If you visit their website at* you can order an English language version of the guidebook and map for about €13.90 plus postage. For the city of Vienna, we used the English language version of the "Insight Guide Vienna," published by Apa Publications GmbH. You can check out their website at*

Day 1: Passau to Donauschlinge

Day Overview: “What is a ‘Donauschlinge,” you ask. Donauschlinge by OÖ. Werbung / HeilingerWell, many of the travel posters about the Danube show an aerial shot of the river bending back on itself in a forested, steep-walled valley. That loop sometimes called an oxbow in English, is a Schlinge in German. The Donauschlinge is across from the town of Schlögen. We only ride 25.6 miles (41.2 km) today stopping for the night at a Gasthaus at the tip of this Schlinge because half of the day was spent sightseeing in Passau. The path is paved today but we have to ride 6 miles (10 km) on the shoulder of a busy road. While the path is mostly flat; there is one 50-foot hill. We also learned a new word in the German language, at least as it is spoken in this area. That is Jause (to snack). And of course, a Jausenstation is a place to get snacks or light meals. One of the favorite things with which to wash down your Jause is Most, a sour tasting, mildly alcoholic, apple cider. It is so sour that many tourist order their Most be süßgespritzed or served half-and-half with 7-Up.

Daghild, Erhard and Maxa in Passau

Mile 0 (0 km): We start our trip to Vienna from under the Marienbrücke in Passau, Germany. That is the name of the last bridge crossing the Inn River before it joins the Danube. From here, it’s ½ mile to the confluence.

Mile 12.3 (19.8 km): It’s raining hard now, as we ride through this area. The four of us are spread out equal distance along the road. It reminds me of my military training (many years ago that I am trying to forget during the Viet Nam Police Action). When we went on patrol, we kept a “tactical distance.” That meant that we stayed far enough apart from each other that if one of us stepped on a mine (or attracted enemy fire), the next in line didn’t get the full blast because we were separated by about 10 meters. Don’t you know that 10 meters is just enough space between bicycle riders in the rain for the spray from one back tire to go up and come down before the next rider gets to that point? I call it tactical rain riding formation. For about seven kilometers, we are riding on the shoulder of a highway so we get the spray from the few passing cars too. This is not too fun but it beats working in an air-conditioned office, after all.

Mile 15.9 (25.6 km): Here we cross into Austria, there is no observable border as Austria is part of the Euro Zone. Except for a small sign, there is nothing to mark the border. It is an indication of the success of the European Economic Community or in German, the “EU” or Europäische Union.

Mile 17.8 (28.6 km): We ride past a tourist information kiosk that will handle overnight accommodations all along the Danube. We usually take potluck with reservations because we never know when we’ll feel like stopping and we like to choose places from their appearance both inside and outside. We ride further but we notice a couple on a tandem doing business at the window as we pass. We will see them down the trail.

Mile 25.6 (41.2 km): We stop for the day here because it is getting late. The biking part of today is short because we spent so long looking around Passau. We like this Gasthaus a lot it has been here many years and is a real family run establishment with Frau Pumberger doing the cooking and kids doing the serving. Herr Pumberger comes in later and the whole family takes their supper at the next table. Since 1750 the family Pumberger has owned the small passenger ferry here. It is one of two ferries within a quarter of a mile of each other. The Pumbergers are proud that their ferry was the first one here and they view the newcomer as a usurper. The new ferry tries to get people to cross over to the hotel at Schlögen but if you resist and ride the quarter of a mile to the Gasthaus, you’ll be rewarded. We are the last of the guests to arrive. We stopped in Frizell a few miles back to inquire at a Zimmer Frei sign we passed but they were booked. However, the owner in Frizell telephoned ahead to make reservations for us at this Gasthaus. Just as we take our bags up to our room, we see the couple on the tandem that we passed at the tourist information kiosk at mile 17.8. They thought they had reservations here too but now the place is full. They ride on and we don’t see them again but I can tell they are disappointed. Travel is full of experiences – some are happy like ours tonight, some are frustrating like theirs. Oh well.

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Day 2: Donauschlinge to Steyregg

Day Overview: We take the Pumberger ferry downriver due to a lack of a trail on the left bank for about 4 kilometers. The ferry stops at Inzell on the right bank of the Danube and we drop off two fellow travelers that we befriended last night at the Gasthaus. We will see them again in five days but we don’t realize that at this time. Today’s mileage is 38.4 miles (61.8 km). The path is paved the entire way. There are three small hills to climb over today before stopping for the night at Steyregg, just east of Linz.

Mile 0 (0 km): After the ferry ride we dock at Grafenau, a small village on the north bank or left bank. The ferry cost €4 each. At about mile 7, the river bends south and we look down the narrow, forested Danube valley. There is a mist hanging low over the river making each succeeding hill a little grayer in color. Topping the last hill is the outline of a castle. What a picture! What a memory. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else at this moment. As I write this, the picture is fresh in my mind; sadly, not in yours because I did not snap the picture so I cannot show it to you. Again, Oh well.

Mile 9.2 (14.8 km): We considered continuing on the left bank but the waitress in the coffee shop at Obermühl told us that the left bank bike path is steep and with rough terrain and a couple people have fallen. We said, “We’ll cross to the flat side, thank you.” We are members of the Over-Fifty-with-Bad-Knees Club, after all. We cross the Danube again at the Obermühl ferry. Like many ferry landings, there is a sort of intercom here. It reminds me of the toy I played with as a kid – two tin cans connected by a taut string. To call the ferry you press the Rufen (to call) button for 5 seconds then wait. That will ring a bell at the other station across the river. If you don’t get an answer, they ask you to wait 5 minutes before pressing the Rufen button again. If you do get an answer and you want to talk to the ferry operator, you have to hold the Sprechen (to speak) button down while you are talking and then release it to hear their reply. We did not test the operator’s English but he is in the tourist business. He can at least get by at least. Who knows, he may be able to correct a doctoral thesis for spelling, grammar, and punctuation.

Mile 26.0 (41.8 km): After riding almost 10 miles with little to remark upon, we come to an information kiosk on the outskirts of Ottensheim. We climb a small hill following the path under a bridge and then ride alongside a major road for about 6 miles (10 km). Not as much fun as earlier but better than actually riding on the shoulder of a road which we would be doing on the other bank.

Mile 31.5 (50.7 km): We enter Linz. We take a break from biking to check out this major metropolitan city on the Danube. Of course, there are many places to stay in Linz but we will continue down the path because we prefer to stay in smaller villages.

Mile 38.4 (61.8 km): We stop for the day in Steyregg at Pension Würzburger. The Hotel Weisse Wolf across the street provides our evening meal because the Pension does not have a restaurant. While the rooms are small in Pension Würzburger, they are clean, affordable, quiet, and convenient. What more can one ask?

Day 3: Steyregg to Grein

Day Overview: The weather today is sunny but cool, perfect for biking. We’ll be fighting a headwind but the good part of that is winds from the east connote good weather on the Danube. The owner of the Pension recommends that we stay on the left bank until just before we get to Grein, where we should cross on the bridge. One in our party, Erhard, is coming down with the flu so we will make it a short day and stop in Grein. Today’s mileage is 31.3 miles (50.4 km). The path is paved the entire way again today and mostly flat except for one small hill (40-foot) at the start.

Mile 0 (0 km): We set our odometers at zero when we get back to the trail after spending the night in Steyregg. In about 10 km, we enter Grusen. Even though we just got started, we stop here because there is a 12-member band playing for a local hunting club meeting. The meeting is outside on the lawn of a local Kneipe (pub). We know they are hunters because they are dressed in all manner of official hunting clothes. You know, green lederhosen with suspenders, green felt caps and a stein of beer in their hand. They look like all hunters in Germany and Austria, I think. On the ground are two dead forest critters, a small deer and a wild boar, from this morning’s successful hunt. We have a stein of Most (sour, hard, apple cider) and join them in their sing-along for half an hour. It is good medicine for Erhard’s flu. At least he claims it is.

Mile 24.3 (39.1 km): We ride past a small ruin of a church or small palace.

Mile 30.5 (49.1 km): We cross under a bridge that we will ride back to in the morning. For now, we want to ride into Grein and find accommodations for the night.

Mile 31.3 (50.4 km): We stop for the night at Haus Christine at Schloss Gangl. This is a recommendable Zimmer. After we clean up, we walk across the small bridge into the downtown section of Grein and find a nice restaurant. It’s pouring rain so we decide to return to our rooms after dinner rather than take in the sights such as the Stadttheater and the Schloss Greinburg, both from the 17 Century.

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Day 4: Grein to Groisbach

Day Overview: Today is another short day. We take two well-spent hours looking through the Melk Stift (a large monastery) and with our other stops, just run out of time. We have learned to find lodging before 6:00 PM so we stop after only 37 miles (59 km). The bike path is paved the entire day and except for the 150-foot elevation change necessary to cross the Danube at Melk, the path is flat.

Mile 0 (0 km): After riding the 1.1 miles to the bridge west of Grein (the one we crossed under yesterday afternoon), I reset my odometer to zero. Now on the south bank of the Danube following the signs toward Ybbs and Melk, we see a picture-perfect reflection of the town of Grein in the Danube. If it weren’t raining that would make a memorable photograph.

Mile 2.8 (4.5 km): I note that the valley walls have temporarily closed in on the river and the towns on the opposite bank are seemingly stacked like children's blocks into the hillside. The slow-moving water of the Danube reflects the light colored houses with their red and gray tile roofs. Even in the rain, the scenery is beautiful. The bright colors remind me of a Grandma Moses painting.

Mile 8.1 (13.0 km): Enter Willersbach. Massive woodpiles are a common sight and this morning, being a little chilly, the smell of wood smoke occasionally assails our senses. Many people use wood for cooking as well as heat.

Mile 12.6 (20.3 km): We cross to the north bank on the dam. You’ll see a tourist information sign just before you cross.

Mile 23.2 (37.3 km): We continue following signs toward Melk and ride past the turnoff to Emmersdorf.

Mile 27.1 (43.6 km): After crossing the Danube again, cross the Melk River on a narrow bridge (A bus scares me by coming up behind me on this narrow bridge). Once across, look up at the Melk Stift, a famous 11th Century monastery with a beautiful Rococo church. The library here has hundreds of hand-written books over 1,000 years old. If you can read the Latin script, you can read a few pages in these books. The church itself has so many gold-plated figures and features that it looks opulent – even ostentatious. We are told that eight pounds of gold was used in its making but it looks more like a thousand pounds of gold. Melk Chapel.

Mile 28.4 (45.7 km): Leaving Melk is a challenge. The route is not well signed. We know that we have to cross the river and the guidebook shows the Donaubrücke (Danube Bridge) to be east of town and after a little wandering, we find it. You may have to ask directions. Unfortunately, you will have to climb up to the level of the Autobahn, over 150 feet.

Mile 37.1 (59.7 km): We are now in the Wachau Region. After riding through Groisbach, we stop at a Zimmer Frei along the trail at the far edge of town. For our evening meal, we patronize the only establishment in town. It’s a family run restaurant/pub with its complement of regulars. The food is good and the local people are friendly. In one case, too friendly. We meet Rudi. Rudi, we reason, is the town drunk and this evening he has already been working on obtaining his preferred mental state for several hours. Through a haze of schnapps and cigarette smoke, he eventually discerns that I talk funny. “Yooou Amer-kan oder Brit-tisch”? He inquires, blowing his last inhale in my face. In my best German (which leaves much to be desired), I explain to him that we are from Seattle, on the west coast of America. “Ja! Amer-kan” he exclaims, inches from my face. “I speak Englisch” he informs me, “I was in New York once.” Another puff on his cigarette – he is so close that he has to lean back a bit to make room for the cigarette between our faces. He exhales without turning away again. “Sir,” I ask in English, “could you put your cigarette out”? My traveling companions echo my statement in German but Rudi is intent on forming his next sentence in my language and ignores us all. As we talk, the other regulars are beginning to be embarrassed by Rudi’s disregard for his cigarette and our distress (apparently obvious to everyone except Rudi). Finally, one of them physically takes the cigarette out of his nicotine-stained fingers and stubs it out in the ashtray. Rudi stares into the ashtray, looking like he has lost a friend. Recovering his demeanor, dulled by drink as it is, he continues chatting (stammering is more like it) with me in English. I think our relationship is about to develop into a Christmas card sharing friendship except the proprietress brings us our food and on her way back to the bar, she takes Rudi with her. She gives him the “hook,” as they say. He’s happy, after all, he’s gone without smoking for 3 or 4 minutes now and it is time for another cigarette. After dinner, we walk in the moonlight to the top of the hill above the town. We watch the fog swirl around the 15th Century ruin of Aggstein on the other side of the river. This could easily be a scene from a Dracula movie. The guidebook suggests an alternate ride across the river to visit the ruin. The castle is 300 meters (984 feet) higher than the river though, so we just enjoy looking at it from afar and saving our knees. However, for the hearty, it has been recently restored and should be interesting. You can get there from Melk, or there might be a ferry between Aggsbach Markt and Aggsbach Dorf (it is hard to tell from the guidebook).

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Day 5: Groisbach Thru the Wachau to Langenlebarn (a suburb of Vienna)

Day Overview: We start the day on the north bank but we will be crossing to the south bank in Krems. There are two short stretches of gravel and only one 50-foot hill today. Although some of the ride is on roadways, the traffic is light and the day is full of quaint towns and villages. The route is well marked and you’ll enjoy yourself. You may want to check out the museum at Willendorf and the church and chapel in St. Michael at the first part of the ride. Today’s mileage is 46 miles (74 km).

Mile 0 (0 km): We eat a mediocre breakfast at our Zimmer and continue down the north side of the river into the Wachau. The Wachau is a wine-growing region with rolling hills, old villages and small, stone terraced vineyards. On nice days, it's drop dead beautiful.

Mile 0.2 (0.3 km): This is Willendorf, where the 22,000-year-old Venus of Willendorf was found. The Venus is dated to the Early Stone Age. The photograph is attributed to this website. There is a museum here described in the Guidebook but for now the “beautiful” 4-inch high lady actually lives in the Natural History Museum in Vienna. Down the road a couple miles, we ride through beautiful Spitz. The sun reflecting off the morning due is causing the grape leaves to sparkle as if embedded with pearls and diamonds. (And I thought the only value in a vineyard was the wine. How shallow of me.)

Mile 4.7 (7.6 km): We stop here in St. Michael to check out the small, 12th Century church and chapel next to the trail. Across the street, we notice an evergreen branch hanging from a signpost in front of a small winery. Daghild, one of our traveling companions, explains that the branch is a symbol that this year’s wine is now ready and being served. Hey! This sounds like an opportunity for a glass of wine in the name of science and tourism, even if it is only 10:00 o’clock.

As we enjoy the wine, the proprietress explains that the chapel, while locked, contains over fifty human skulls that can be glimpsed through the hole in the wooden door. What a macabre sight that is, but we can’t pass it up either. She doesn’t know for sure, but the proprietress says the skulls are purportedly from warriors of an invading tribe several hundred years ago. Or they could be from the Huns or the Turks; both of whom were invading tribespeople.

Riding through the vineyards, we note how the vineyards are terraced up the steep hills. Ground here is so valuable that the stone walls used for terracing have special stones in the walls allowing the last row of vines to be planted right into the wall. The soil here is poor and shallow. Surprisingly perfect for growing Riesling grapes but other white wine grapes are also grown. Austrians like their wine dry and young. Their Riesling grapes produce a dryer wine than that of Riesling grapes in Germany, for example. Also, their tradition is to drink wine when it is first available, rather than letting it age.

The Wachau, one of the smallest wine-growing districts in Austria, is known for its high quality, dry, white wine. Wine has been cultivated in this region for hundreds of years, perhaps even before the time of Christ. This is actually the original source of the Riesling grapevines made famous by vintners along the Mosel and Rhine rivers in Germany.

History has not been easy on the vintners of the Wachau. During the Thirty-Years war (1616-1648 between Catholics and Protestants), the region was decimated several times. Empress Maria-Theresa (1717-1780) encouraged the re-establishment of the wine industry by restructuring the taxation system. Then, in 1784, her son Emperor Josef II issued an edict allowing wine-makers to sell their own wine on their premises. The "Heurige" taverns that are throughout the Austrian wine growing regions stemmed from this edict.

Then in 1890, two different fungi and a parasite (all imported accidentally from America) attacked the vines. They eventually were eradicated. Mile 10.2 (16.4 km): At the top of a 50-foot hill we find Dürnstein. The museum here explores wine growing in the Wachau.

Also, there is an old castle converted into a five-star hotel atop this picturesque village. Perhaps, the English king, Richard the Lion Heart, was held captive in this same castle in 1192. From this true event, came the story about his loyal servant Blondel, who set out to search for the king when he didn’t return from the Crusade. As the tale goes, Blondel wandered about the crusade route playing tunes familiar to the king on his lute. While playing outside the castle at Dürnstein, the king answered him by singing the words to the tune. Blondel then quickly returned to England where he raised the “king’s ransom” and returned to free his lord.

Mile 16.4 (26.4 km): As we leave Krems, we are following bike path signs toward Tulln, on the South Bank of the Danube. At this point, we make a right and then in a short distance, a U-turn to cross the bridge over the Danube. To the right, as we cross the bridge, we look back at the mountainous country of the Wachau with its narrow valleys and steep hillsides. To the left, we look out upon the open plains that will be typical of the remainder of our journey into Vienna.

Mile 43.1 (69.4 km): We enter Tulln and we check the information Kiosk for a place to stay; we choose one just east of town in the village of Langenlebarn.

Mile 46.0 (74.0 km): We get lucky here in Langenlebarn. The Zimmer that we selected from the sign in Tulln is already full but the owner allows us to stay in her Ferinewohung (vacation apartment – normally rented for several days at a time rather than by the night) because we plan to spend three nights here. We’ll use the train to “commute” to Vienna for the next couple of days. We’ll do our sightseeing from here, then ride the last 37 km just before we leave for home. We think it is cheaper to stay outside of Vienna and commute. And with this superb accommodation, we are sure we will be more comfortable.

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Day 6: Langenlebarn to Vienna

Day Overview: This is a short, 22.8-mile (36.7 km) ride into Vienna to the train station. The path is flat until you get into the city. The day is uneventful as far as the bike riding is concerned. We are headed for the Westbahnhof – from there, we will take a night train back to our home base in Germany.

We decide to check our bikes into the baggage check area at the Bahnhof and complete our sightseeing by streetcar and on foot. Since we were going to be visiting Schloss Schönbrunn nearby, we would have to lock our bikes into a public bike rack for several hours. That’s not a wise thing as they are loaded with all of our gear. Checking the gear is just as expensive as checking the whole bike with the gear strapped to it. Hey! It looks like a “no-brainer. Besides, we have already purchased a multi-day streetcar ticket. Vienna is as cosmopolitan as it gets in Europe. They are famous for music, art, food, government, and architecture.

The photograph to the right is of the Plague Column on the Graben in Vienna. Four hundred years before Christ, Celtic people settled in the in what is today’s Hoher Markt, a tourist attraction today. Vienna saw most of European history parade in front of it. Occupied by the Romans until the fall of their empire about 476AD. In the 13th Century the Mongols stopped by for a visit, i.e., Genghis Kahn, then in the Ottoman Turks besieged the city not once but twice. In 1679 the first wave of the plague hit. The plague would eventually wipe out every third person. In 1938, Austria peaceably allowed the German Third Reich to annex them to Germany. Perhaps they had not been occupied for so long, they missed the feeling.

Several of the crusades also marched through or past the city between 1096 and 1204.. As the English king returned from the Third Crusade, Duke Leopold V of Austria captured and imprisoned Richard the Lion Heart in Dürnstein, west of Vienna, for whom a “king’s ransom” was paid.

The Turks not once but twice besieged Vienna. (Today, people of Turkish ancestry are a visible minority in the modern melting pot of Vienna. Bringing me to ponder why the Viennese bothered to fend them off in the first place.)

Then came the Thirty-years war between the Catholics (most of Austria) and the Protestants (mostly in northern Germany). The assassination of Viennese Crown Prince Franz Ferdinand sparked the First World War and Austria, allied with Germany, played a major role in the Second World War as well. It is hard for any one community to take a more active part in world history than that of Vienna.

Mile 0(0 km): We bid farewell to our hostess climb up on the dike along the river and ride into the sun toward Vienna. The density of human habitation increases as we near the city.

Mile 12.3 (19.8 km): We ride past a campground along the way. Campgrounds can be important to bikers on self-guided and self-supported bicycle tours. Even if, like us, you are using Zimmer, Pensions, and hotels, campgrounds frequently offer laundry facilities. And normally they have tourist information about the area as well.

Mile 22.8 (36.7 km): We end our ride at Westbahnhof. Here we catch a night train back to Germany.

Here are several more photographs of Vienna.

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